Plaid, Pleats and Raspberry Creek

I think I just made my favorite fall top to date!  As soon as I laid eyes on this Raspberry Creek CLUB subtle floral (and plaid), I knew it was meant to be.  I’m all for a floral, but something more subtle is always just what I need more recently.  This is the cotton lycra base, which worked out great.  I used the Mama Joy pattern as a base, but made a few tweaks.

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As I mentioned in my last post, I’ve frequently experienced tightness in the armsyce and armpits of a lot of tops.  I realized that most of the time my actual problem is that my upper back is slightly more broad than the rest of my measured size.  This caused the back to pull up more than it should have, and thus pulling up the armsyce.  My solution is to grade into one size larger for the armpit area and upper back, and take a slightly smaller seam allowance in the shoulders.  This is what I did for this Mama Joy, and the results are pretty good!

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All of the plaid accents are modifications I made.  I decided I wanted a back yoke about 4″ past the shoulder seam on the back and then continued it up about 3″ past the shoulder seam on the front.  I blocked these separately, meaning I cut the pieces I wanted to be plaid out both the front and back pattern pieces, added 1/2″ to each end for seam allowance, sewed them onto the floral front and back, then sewed the shoulder seams.  After doing this I realized it would probably have looked better to keep the plaid in one continuous piece over the shoulders, but I recently made a shirt that actually had a back yoke and shoulder yokes and it was constructed in a similar way with a seam at the shoulders as well.  I think it’s just more noticeable because the plaid doesn’t quite pattern match.  I don’t mind it though, and kinda like that you can see the seams there.  Overall I am very pleased with it!

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I thought it could use some side tabs to pull the plaid back down and complete the look.  Unfortunately I decided this after I’d already sewn the side seams…classic.  So I carefully topstitched it along the side seam, then stitched on the button (I topstitched along the edge of the tab before I attached it).

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The only other adjustment I made was adding my usual 1″ for length, including the arms.  Though, I did end up taking some out of the arms, so I’m thinking that adjusting the shoulder width brought the arm hem down a little bit too, which is interesting.  Or, this pattern just has longer arms than I’m used to…?  It’s possible.

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I love how the pleats add a little bit more structure and volume to the silhouette without too much bulk.  Also…have I also mentioned how freaking soft the CLUB cotton lycra is??  Seriously, softest cotton blend ever, it’s like wearing a cloud.  Plus with a cute print, what more could you need?!

Brb…going to go plan some more…

Elisabeth

P.S. I was totally inspired to make the Mama Joy after seeing Maria Santos wearing one more than once. πŸ˜‰

Pattern: Made for Mermaids Mama Joy | Fabric: Raspberry Creek Fabrics

 

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