This is definitely one of my most favorite makes in quite a while – also something I had been planning to make for a long time as well! I was just waiting for motivation and the perfect fabric; I certainly found both in the Raspberry Creek Fabrics fall line this year. Both the large scale floral and solid mauve rose are french terry (sadly backordered until mid-September) and absolutely to die for.
If you are astute, you may notice the pulls on the double headed invisible zipper on the color blocked yoke. This is indeed a sneaky nursing hack. 🙂 I also added the gray rayon spandex panel underneath, since I figured it would make things easier.
I used the Hey June Halifax Hoodie as the base for this one, with quite a few modifications. I’ll do my best to walk you through the general idea of what I did. For reference, I cut my measured size (XL) based on my hip and bust measurements. Non-pregnancy size is M. Turns out two sizes up is perfect for this 28 week bump with a bit of room to grow.
- Halifax Hoodie pattern
- 2 invisible zippers or invisible zipper kit
- Length is dependent on your pattern size
- For the yoke, I decided where I wanted it to fall on my bust based on how the pattern fits and my measurements. I realized that I needed to slice the bodice top through the armsyce.
- Repeat for the back bodice.
- I wanted to continue the colorblocking onto the sleeve, so I needed to calculate where to cut along the top of the sleeve so that it would line up with the bodice.
- I calculated that the bodice cut occurred ~90% of the way down from the shoulder, so I determined where 90% of the sleeve line was from the shoulder, and cut there.
- Make sure to add seam allowances where you cut the pieces. I added a 1/2″ seam allowance to give more leeway when attaching the invisible zipper.
- The dotted lines on the pattern pieces below are where I cut.
- I encourage you to determine where the best line to colorblock is on your own body by measuring the pattern pieces and yourself.
- Sew the top and bottom sleeve pieces together.
- Note that they will line up with the curve exactly once I sew using the seam allowance I added.
- Cut out all remaining pieces as needed.
- I also added the stripes on the sleeves, by cutting four 2″ x sleeve width rectangles.
- Sew them right sides together on the long sides, then turn right sides out
- Topstitch onto the sleeves where desired. Mine are about 1.5″ down from the colorblocking.
Modifying the Invisible Zipper
- You’ll need to modify your zipper so that it will open from both sides. (Well, you could just use one that opens on one side, but that could be annoying for access.)
- If you bought two invisible zippers, you’ll use one set of teeth and take the pull off of the other one and add it to the original one.
- If you bought the zipper kit, slide one pull over, cut to the length you need (include a few extra inches for safety) and then take off an extra pull.
- This is essentially what you need to do next.
- Only difference is that you will face the zipper heads the other way, so that each one opens each side, instead of a middle opening.
- I had Brian do this for me since I hate dealing with zippers. 🙂
- Now your zipper will open from both ends!
Installing the Invisible Zipper
- I used this very helpful tutorial by Colette.
- I do not own an invisible zipper foot, so I used a rolled hem foot and it worked very well. You will need to use something like this, instead of a regular foot. A regular zipper foot might work, but it will be harder to sew in a perfectly straight line.
- Be sure to follow it exactly, making sure to take care to notice when you are sewing to the right side of the fabric.
- Now zip the top bodice to the bottom bodice and treat this as one piece from now on.
Assembling the Modesty Panel
- I used rayon spandex because it doesn’t add to much heat and recovers nicely when stretched.
- Determine how long you should cut your panel. I actually cut mine too short and added length after I took the picture below, so try to err on the side of too long. Mine is about 12″ long from the shoulder seam to bottom. This will depend on your bust size and preference.
- In hindsight, I think maybe I should have doubled the 12″ length and then gathered the sides to provide more room for the bust. It’s up to you if you want to do this.
- I added a band on the bottom by calculating 90% of the width.
- Attach the panel by basting to the shoulder and side seams of the front bodice.
- Treat this as one piece from now on as well.
- Sew the Halifax as directed.
- When you get to the side seams, you’ll need to sew the zipper teeth together since you will need to move the zipper pull out of the way of the side seam when sewing the side seam.
- Sewing the teeth together will make your life easier and ensure the zipper top and bottom stay lined up perfectly.
- NOW sew the side seams as per usual.
- You’re done with the hard parts! Sew the rest of the hoodie as per usual and finish!
Marvel at your handiwork and zip/unzip zippers for the fun of it. 😉
The large scale floral print is just so beautiful. I am always in awe of RCF florals…they’re just perfect and this one is no exception. It matches so well with the mauve too, such a stunning combination! I spent quite a while trying to decide how best to use the floral and where to place the print on the colorblocked piece specifically. I actually mocked it up in Photoshop very crudely…I sometimes do this when I am unsure and don’t want to make the wrong cut. Isn’t it beautiful?! Haha. This is also when I decided the sleeves needed something additional to pull the print down a bit more, so I added the stripes. I just did the pocket pattern placement randomly in this mock, but I’m realizing now that it is quite close to what I did in real life as well.
I hope this is helpful for you if you decide to make one of these yourself. I did quite a bit of research and compiling of tutorials to try to figure out the best way to make one of these without buying a new pattern. I knew the Halifax fit me well, and I am very particular on the fit in shoulders/armsyce since I have a wider ribcage and upper back. Actually, I may always size up a bit since I prefer this relaxed fit.
Let me know if you have any questions on this, I’m happy to help!